Highland Horizons: Tales from Scotland's West Highland Way
160 Kilometers of Adventure, One Majestic Summit: Climbing Ben Nevis
Friday, May 3rd
My journey with the WHW (West Highland Way) began in January/February 2020, when I had planned to walk it with my father in April of that year. The map and guidebook are from that time.
The return to this idea came last year, when I started seriously considering that we could do it with a tent – a bit hardcore, a bit for the experience, a bit for the challenge.
So, in December, we already had the dates. By the end of January, we booked the trains and the logistics. From then on, it was all about planning, with this thought constantly in the background of our minds.
After several days of weighing, ultralight sitting pads, packing and repacking the backpack, weighing it and trying to figure out where to shave off a few grams, the moment to leave finally arrived.
We met at Euston station around 8:30 PM, ready to board the long-awaited (and at the same time controversial) Caledonian Sleeper, the night train that would take us to Glasgow Central by around 7:30 AM the next day.
Saturday, May 4th - Milganvie to Drymen, 22km, 400m
We walked from Glasgow Central to Queen St for the connection to Milngavie (pronounced mill-guy).
After an initial cancellation that delayed us by about half an hour, we boarded the next train and by around 9 AM we were already on our way. We walked calmly and relaxed, through honesty boxes and pub stops, for a very easy first day. As planned, after 18 km, we reached the Drymen campsite, but there was no room for all of us. We bravely decided to set up a wild camp in the forest, continuing towards Balmaha, the next large village we would encounter along the way. It took us a while, but after another 4 km, we found an enviable spot away from the main path, in total tranquility. The evening went on with primitive fires, dehydrated food pouches, and creative meditative stops within the forest.
Sunday, May 5th - Drymen to Sallochy Campsite, 18km, 500m
It rains at night, and when I pack up the tent, it’s a mix of leaves, various dirt, moisture, and snails attached everywhere. I start to worry, thinking it won’t be easy to dry it out by tonight, especially if it rains, but we’ll deal with it later.
With an energy bar for breakfast, we quickly get ready and by 8:30 we are already on our way. The weather is typically Scottish, with mist and drizzle, as we choose to take the high route, skirting Conic Hill from the east. A brief pause after the climb, with the 13 kg backpack weighing heavily on my shoulders, each time I put it back on it feels like a mammoth task. The weather doesn’t allow for any noteworthy views, and we leave Conic Hill to our left, continuing towards Balmaha for a hot fish soup (cullen skink) and a hot chocolate. We’re back on the trail, and after another stop at Cashel Campsite, we arrive at Sallochy, where we will camp with a view of Loch Lomond.
Today we had another relatively light stage and Sallochy is probably the best campsite along the route. We soak our feet in the lake and have dinner and breakfast with a view. The luxury is represented by some very curious compostable toilets, and to tell the truth, I find them quite fascinating
Monday, May 6th - Sallochy Campsite to Beinglas Campsite (Inverarnan), 28km, 800m
This third day is probably the hardest and most beautiful of the entire route; but also the day that gives me the most comfort and confidence, given the way we faced it.
We start early, around 8, aware of the difficult day ahead; despite the forecasts, the weather is improving and, despite someone trying to discourage us the night before, we decide to take the low route along the lake instead of opting for the higher path.
No decision was ever more spot-on. The path is challenging at times, but the view is very rewarding, and despite the weight of our backpacks, it feels like we have something extra in our veins as we overtake everyone ahead of us on the more technical sections. Maybe it’s thanks to the toilets at Sallochy? :)
We reach the end of the section almost an hour before the campsite, and a mini-storm of 10-15 minutes starts, just giving us an excuse to use the rain covers on our backpacks. Once at Beinglas, we rush to the pub for a royal meal after a quick shower, the first in almost 4 days.
Tuesday, May 7th - Beinglas Campsite (Inverarnan) to Tydrum, 19km, 600m
After yesterday's exertion, today's stage is planned to be lighter (and modestly, I did the planning myself and I think it was perfect, despite everything) :)
After passing the deviation towards Crianlarich (which we don't take), we mark the milestone of the route, about 80 km, and morale certainly rises; by now, we greet each other with the various groups we've learned to recognize and nickname: the three Germans with their uncle in the car, the crazy Irishman with the orange pants, the hardcore German, the Italo-Dutch Martino who speaks perfect Italian (and with whom I regularly vent that there are no Italians because they're lounging in southern Europe, but we also reflect on life and Italy), the German Bettina who wants to live in Friuli and who has experienced everything on this trip.
In Tyndrum, we recharge in every sense and find the first supermarket after more than 80 km; we raid the fruit and vegetable section like Indians raid the trains of invading colonizers.
Then, in the pub, they serve me the best sticky toffee pudding of my life while we get a taste of civilization watching Dortmund eliminate PSG in the Champions League final.
But there are also those who prefer a couple of pints to desserts, right Bettina? :)
Wednesday, May 8th - Tydrum to Glencoe Mountain Resort, 29km, 700m
The fifth day on paper is the longest in terms of kilometers, although it will turn out to be easier than expected, with less elevation gain and a wide, easy-to-travel road.
However, there are still 29 km to cover, with arrival at the deviation to the Glencoe Mountain Resort, which for campers has absolutely nothing of a real resort.
Nevertheless, the view is magnificent, and I enjoy using the stove under a light rain.
However, the nighttime forecasts are accurate, and we encounter a windstorm that keeps us from closing our eyes; at midnight, in the rain, I have to get up to adjust the pegs because they're coming loose, highlighting all my inexperience in serious camping :)
Thursday, May 9th - Glencoe Mountain Resort to Kinlochleven, 17km, 500m
At the end of the night, despite not getting any sleep, the tent holds up, and so do we, somehow. Once again, despite some timid complaints, the plan proves to be perfect, with a more relaxed and tranquil day ahead of us, before the final assault on Fort William.
The first signs of wear and tear have already appeared, with blisters, sore knees, feet or ankles, perhaps shoulders tired from the weight of the backpack, or a neck giving some trouble; but all of us unanimously have no doubts that after last night, we will pull through, despite the fatigue or condition.
After the best breakfast of the trip (we stop after a few kilometers at the Kinghouse Hotel where, for £10, we can enjoy a nice buffet), we tackle the Devil's Staircase; the view isn't the best, but we still enjoy the climb.
Arriving in Kinlochleven is straightforward, and we're there early, even before check-in, so there's time for some relaxation at the pub and to restock our supplies once again, with fruits and vegetables as a priority.
Dinner once again is splendid, consisting of various courses; the highlight is always the packet of dehydrated food (a pack with about 1,000 calories), but also bars, snacks, dried fruit, and chocolate.
Tomorrow evening we'll arrive in Fort William, and the entire campsite seems to be pulsating with excitement and anticipation.
Friday, May 10th - Kinlochleven to Glen Nevis Campsite (Fort William), 22km, 700m
Once again, we're on the move early. The road passes through the typical landscape of the Highlands; the stones and rocks tire our feet after many kilometers. Two of our travel companions (Rob and Mel) continue towards the final statue marking the end of the WHW, then quickly return to Glasgow. Giuseppe and I, on the other hand, head to the Glen Nevis Campsite; there's still something for us to accomplish. Tomorrow, we want to climb to the roof of the United Kingdom, and summit Ben Nevis.
Saturday, May 11th - Glen Nevis Campsite (Fort William) to Ben Nevis and back, 15km, 1,400m
Ben Nevis is an institution for the British, and although I've already climbed it last year and we'll be taking the normal (aka easy) mountain track as our ascent route, I can't deny that thinking about it and sleeping right under it (from the campsite, you have a magnificent view) fills me with a bit of excitement; according to the forecast, we're expecting a clear and cloudless day, a rare condition in these parts.
We gather at 6:00 at the stone bridge in the campsite; Giuseppe, Sophia, and I are eager to look down on everyone from the highest step. They both forge ahead quickly, but I want to savor every step, every view, every bend.
At one point, I notice a small backpack with a guidebook of the WHW and I ask the lady if she had completed it; shortly after, I discover she's Italian and she's the true redemption of a people, the answer I've been fervently seeking in my 'protests' with Martino.
Annarita is an extraordinary person, courageous, who at 67 years old can truly teach everyone how to live, with gratitude, adaptability, and respect, altruism, and always with the desire to never give up; as I told her, I would love to be able to do and be a tenth of what she has done, and I would be extremely happy, blessed to have met her.
It would take an entire blog (or rather a book) to tell you everything she has done, but we climb together and descend, amidst tales of adventures, reflections on life, and plans for future walks.
The summit of Ben Nevis in the sun is something incredible, and being at the top just after 9 allows us to appreciate it even more intimately, as the Sunday crowds have not yet arrived.
We conclude this adventure as all adventures in Scotland should, with beer, fish and chips, sticky toffee pudding, and whisky :)
Bella storia! Chiamandomi Martino sento ancora di più l'urgenza di ritornar a vivere in Italia! E piuttosto il più speditamente possibile!